Men's Hair Products: Which One to Use and When

Most men use whatever product they pick up first and stick with it regardless of whether it is actually suited to their hair or their style. The difference between the right product and the wrong one is visible. Here is how to choose correctly.

The Main Types

Hair products for men fall into a few consistent categories defined by hold strength, finish (shine vs. matte), and how they interact with different hair textures.

Pomade: Oil-based pomades provide high shine and medium to high hold. They work best on fine to medium straight hair for slick styles and side parts. They are not water-soluble, require shampoo to remove, and build up over time. Water-based pomades give similar shine with easier washout and are more practical for most men.

Clay: Clay products provide matte to low-sheen finish with medium to high hold. The texture-adding properties of clay make it ideal for textured styles, messy looks, and hair with natural texture. It adds grip without weighing hair down and works across most hair types.

Cream: Hair creams provide light hold and low sheen. They are the most forgiving product type, working across all hair types without commitment to a specific finish. Best for natural styles, loose waves, and men who want something in their hair without a structured look.

Wax: Hair wax sits between clay and pomade in feel. It provides medium hold with a low to medium sheen. Good for defining styles with some texture while maintaining a clean appearance. Less versatile than clay for heavily textured styles but cleaner-looking than most pomades.

Gel: Provides the highest hold with the highest sheen. Gel dries hard, which creates lasting structure but reduces natural movement. Best for slicked-back styles and very precise styling where movement is not the goal. Has largely been replaced by water-based pomades for most applications.

Matching Product to Hair Type

Fine hair: lighter products with lower hold work better. Heavy products weigh fine hair down and make it look flat. Water-based pomade or a light cream adds control without collapsing volume.

Thick hair: clay and wax provide the grip needed to control thick hair without being overwhelmed by it. Light creams often do not provide sufficient hold for thick hair in any structured style.

Coily and curly hair: creams and curl-specific products designed for moisture retention give better definition and control than products designed for straight hair. Clay adds grip but can dry out curly hair if not used sparingly.

Dry vs. Damp Application

Most products are applied to towel-dried damp hair for better distribution and workability. Products applied to fully dry hair require more effort to distribute and often result in uneven coverage. The exception is clay and some waxes that can be applied to dry hair to add texture and definition after a blowdry.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much product should I use?

Less than you think. A pea-sized amount for short hair, up to a dime-sized amount for medium hair. More product does not mean more hold. Excess product creates buildup, weighs hair down, and makes hair look dirty rather than styled. If the product is not distributing, work it between your palms first to warm it before applying.

Should I use product before or after blowdrying?

Lightweight styling creams and heat protectants are applied before blowdrying to control the style direction during the drying process. Finishing products (clay, pomade, wax) are applied after blowdrying for definition and hold. Some men use a two-step process with a pre-dry product for direction and a finishing product for texture and definition.

Why does my product stop working after a few weeks?

Product buildup on the scalp and hair shaft reduces the effectiveness of styling products over time. A clarifying shampoo used once every 1 to 2 weeks removes this buildup and restores the hair's ability to hold styling product. If switching to clarifying shampoo periodically resolves the problem, buildup was the cause.

What product works for a clean slicked-back look?

A water-based pomade provides the shine and control needed for a clean slick-back. Apply to damp hair, comb back from front to crown, and allow to air dry or blowdry with a brush for more volume. Oil-based pomade provides a stronger hold for styles that need to last longer or resist humidity.

Is it okay to use product every day?

Yes, provided you wash the product out with shampoo every 1 to 3 days depending on buildup. Wearing the same product for multiple days without washing contributes to buildup and can affect scalp health. The frequency of washing depends on the product type and how much you apply.

Related Reading From CADMEN Barber Academy

• Men's Hair Products: What They Do, When to Use Them, and How to Recommend the Right One
• How to Choose the Right Hair Product for Your Hair Type
• Cutting Coily Hair: The Techniques That Work and the Mistakes That Damage the Pattern
• Cutting Curly Hair: What Barbers Do Differently
• How to Cut Curly Hair: Barber Techniques and Approach
• Curly Hair at the Barbershop: What Barbers Do Differently