Growing Out Men's Hair: How to Handle Every Awkward Stage

Growing out hair from short to medium or long is a 6 to 18 month process depending on starting point and target length. Most men give up during the awkward middle phase not because the goal is wrong but because they do not know how to manage what is happening. Here is what to expect at each stage and how to handle it.

Stage 1: Just Past Short (0-2 Inches)

The first 6 to 8 weeks of growth look intentional if the original short cut was clean. Keep getting the sides and back trimmed during this stage. A barber can maintain the sides and neckline while leaving the top untouched. This keeps you looking groomed while the top section gains length.

The mistake at this stage is stopping all barbershop visits. The top growing while the sides and back are also untouched creates a bushy, undefined look that feels impossible to manage. Maintain the perimeter, grow the top.

Stage 2: The Awkward Zone (2-4 Inches)

This is where most men quit. The top is long enough to be noticeable but not long enough to style in the intended direction. It sits at different angles depending on where you are in the growth. The sides may be at an awkward length that is neither short enough to fade cleanly nor long enough to style back.

Strategies for this stage: a light hold styling cream or pomade to add direction without weight. Hair that grows forward can be pushed to one side or back with a comb and light product. A small amount of product applied to damp hair and blowdried in the desired direction dramatically improves the appearance.

A barber can also shape the top slightly during this stage to create more uniformity without removing length. Shaping, not cutting, is the instruction to give.

Stage 3: Establishing Length (4-6 Inches)

At 4 inches the hair has enough length to be styled intentionally. The awkward phase is largely behind you. You can now make choices about the specific style you want and cut toward that direction. If the target is a curtain cut, this is where the fringe starts to fall correctly. If the target is a slicked-back or swept-back style, the length now accommodates it with product.

Regular trims are important here to manage the shape. Without occasional light trims, different sections of the hair may reach different lengths depending on individual growth rates, creating uneven overall shape.

Stage 4: Medium to Long (6+ Inches)

At 6 inches and beyond, the main considerations shift to maintenance, weight distribution, and styling technique. Longer hair requires more product than short hair for the same level of control. It also requires more conditioning to stay manageable.

Regular light trims every 6 to 8 weeks prevent split ends from traveling up the shaft and causing breakage. Maintaining the ends keeps the length that has grown.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I tell the barber I am growing my hair out?

Yes. Tell the barber your target length and that you do not want length removed from the top section. A barber who knows you are growing out will shape and clean up the cut without taking length they should be protecting. Without this information, they may trim the top by default.

How do I manage the sides when growing out hair?

This depends on your target style. Growing to a longer all-around style means eventually letting the sides grow too. If the target is a long top with shorter sides, continue to maintain the fade or taper on the sides throughout the growth process. The decision about what to do with the sides depends entirely on the end style.

What product works best during the awkward phase?

Light hold cream or a small amount of clay applied to damp hair, then blowdried or air-dried in the desired direction. Avoid heavy products during the awkward phase. Heavy product on shorter-than-intended hair weighs it down and makes the awkward length more visible. Light hold with direction is the goal.

Why does my hair look worse at some lengths than others?

Hair has natural pivot points where growth behavior changes. At certain lengths, hair transitions from lying flat to standing up or curling before it reaches the next length where it falls back down. This is entirely normal. The solution is to push through to the next length using product and direction styling rather than cutting it back at the difficult length.

Is there a way to grow hair faster during the process?

Hair grows at your genetic rate. The practical approach is preventing breakage that would reduce net length despite growth. Protective styling during the awkward phases, minimal heat, and regular conditioning preserve the length that grows. The perception that some men grow hair faster is often actually fewer breakage incidents rather than genuinely higher growth rate.

Related Reading From CADMEN Barber Academy

• Cutting Coily Hair: The Techniques That Work and the Mistakes That Damage the Pattern
• Cutting Curly Hair: What Barbers Do Differently
• How to Cut Curly Hair: Barber Techniques and Approach
• Curly Hair at the Barbershop: What Barbers Do Differently
• Curly Hair at the Barbershop: Cuts and Products That Actually Work
• Cutting Curly Hair as a Barber: How to Work With the Curl Pattern, Not Against It