Growing Out Your Hair: What to Expect and How to Get Through the Awkward Stages

Most men who try to grow their hair longer abandon the process during the awkward middle phase. Understanding what that phase involves and how long it lasts makes it easier to stay the course.

The Three Phases

Short (0 to 2 inches on top): the starting point. At this length, the hair is still close enough to look like a deliberately short cut even as it grows slightly. Most men do not find this stage difficult. Awkward middle (2 to 4 inches on top): the most challenging phase. The hair is too long to look like a short cut and too short to style in the ways that work for longer hair. It tends to be unruly, sticks out at the sides, and lacks the weight to fall naturally. This phase lasts approximately 4 to 8 months for men starting from short cuts, depending on growth rate. Long (4 inches and above): the hair has enough length to fall, style, and behave more predictably. Different styling options become available and the hair's natural characteristics (straight, wavy, curly) drive the shape more than the cut does.

Managing the Awkward Phase

Regular barbershop visits during the grow-out: counterintuitively, getting a trim every 6 to 8 weeks during the grow-out removes bulk and weight while keeping the shape clean, making the awkward phase look better even as the overall length is not being cut. The barber takes length from the heaviest or most unruly sections while preserving the parts that need to reach a target length. Products for the middle phase: a light hold cream or paste applied to damp hair helps direct the hair downward and reduce the outward/upward sticking that makes this phase look unkempt. Grow-out styles: a side part or a backward sweep with light product makes the middle-phase hair look more deliberate than leaving it unstyled. Styling effort during the grow-out is higher than either the short or long phases; this is a real part of the commitment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should men cut their hair during the grow-out or stop going to the barber entirely?

Continuing to see a barber during the grow-out is better than stopping entirely. A complete stop to barbershop visits during the grow-out often produces a result that looks like hair that was simply neglected, not intentionally grown. The barber keeps the sides and back proportional to the growing top section and removes damaged or splitting ends that accumulate during the growth phase. Communicate clearly at each visit: "I am growing it out, please only trim the shape, do not take length off the top." This prevents the barber from cutting back the top section to their default preference.

How can I tell if my hair grows straight or curly before it gets long?

As the hair approaches 2 to 3 inches in length, the growth pattern becomes more visible. Wavy or curly hair that was previously short enough to appear straight will start showing direction and curl at this length. This is often the first indication that the longer style will require adjustment based on the natural texture. Men who assumed they had straight hair sometimes discover significant wave or curl at this phase; the barber can assess the texture and adjust recommendations for the grow-out accordingly.