How to Cut a Fade with Dreadlocks: Barber Guide

Clients with dreadlocks or locs who want a fade on the sides are one of the more technically specific requests a barber encounters. The fade work itself is standard. The challenge is at the perimeter: where the locs end and the fade begins. The risk of cutting a loc that was not supposed to be cut is real, and the consequence is not easily fixed.

This guide covers the technique, the client consultation, and the specific risks to manage.

Understanding the Service Before Starting

There are several different services a client with locs might be asking for. Before picking up a clipper, clarify exactly what they want:

Taper fade on locs: The sides are faded, the locs on top are not cut or altered. The most common request. The locs themselves stay as they are; only the hair below and around them is faded.

Loc trim: Trimming the ends of the locs to even the length or remove fraying. This is a different service and requires different tools (scissors). If the client is asking for this in addition to a fade, confirm before the service what length they want removed.

Temple fade or undercut: Fading or undercutting the sides while keeping locs tied or pulled up out of the way. Common for clients with medium to long locs who want a cleaner silhouette.

Full cut: Cutting off the locs entirely. Rare, but sometimes requested. If this is what the client wants, confirm explicitly before cutting. A client who says "cut it" may mean "fade the sides and clean it up," not "take off the locs." Ask directly.

The Client Consultation

Before starting a fade on a client with locs:

• Ask where they want the fade to start (low, mid, or high)
• Ask if any locs near the perimeter should not be cut or touched
• Identify any loose or fraying locs near the fade line that may be more fragile
• Ask about their previous experience (have they had fades with locs before, and what did they like or dislike?)

Clients who are protective of their locs will tell you what they need if you ask. Clients who do not volunteer this information are usually not less protective; they are assuming you already know.

Technique: The Perimeter Transition

The fade itself follows standard technique up to the point where the locs hang at the hairline. The perimeter is where the work gets specific.

Pull the locs back and out of the work area

Before starting the fade, gather the locs and pull them up and away from the sides. Use a clip, hair tie, or have the client hold them. This gives you clear visual access to the hairline without locs in the way of your clipper. Work the fade from below upward to the natural hairline.

Work slowly at the perimeter

When you reach the area where locs hang at the hairline, work slowly. The clipper needs to run along the natural hairline without catching locs. Short passes are safer than long ones at this stage.

Use the trimmer, not the main clipper, at the hairline

Switch to a T-liner or detail trimmer for the final work at the perimeter. The smaller blade gives you more precision and better sight lines. The main clipper blade is wider and harder to control close to individual locs.

Check loc positions before each pass

Locs move. After each pass of the trimmer near the hairline, check that no loc has fallen into the path of the next pass. A loc that shifts into your work area unnoticed can be cut before you realize it.

If a Loc Is Accidentally Cut

Tell the client immediately. Do not hide it or hope they will not notice. If a loc is cut near the root, it may need to be restarted or reattached by a loctician. If it is cut further down, the frayed end can sometimes be re-twisted and will grow back.

Clients who are told immediately and calmly can decide what to do next. Clients who discover it later, or who feel it was hidden from them, have a much worse experience. Transparency here is both the right thing to do and the version of the situation that preserves the client relationship.

Styling After the Fade

Once the fade is complete, let the locs down and help the client position them if needed. Some clients with medium or long locs like to see how the locs frame the face with the new fade before leaving. A mirror check from the sides and back is important, as the visual relationship between the locs and the fade is the main thing the client is evaluating.

Building Versatility as a Barber

Serving clients with locs confidently is part of building a barbershop client base that keeps growing. Barbers who can only work with one or two texture types limit how many clients they can retain and grow.

CADMEN's intensive fade classes in Mississauga build the technical foundation for working across hair types. Maximum 3 students, approximately 10 live haircuts per student. Direct correction from master barber Francis Paua on every cut.

Fade class: $1,750 + HST (small group) or $1,950 + HST (1-on-1). Book at academy.cadmen.ca/in-person-training.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you fade the sides when someone has dreadlocks?

Yes. Fading the sides on a client with locs is a standard barbershop service. The fade technique is the same as with any other hair type. The specific skill is managing the perimeter where locs hang at the hairline, using a detail trimmer for precision and working slowly to avoid cutting any locs accidentally.

How do you fade around dreadlocks?

Pull the locs up and away from the sides before starting. Work the fade up to the natural hairline. Switch to a T-liner or detail trimmer for the perimeter work. Use short passes near the hairline and check loc positions before each pass to ensure no locs have shifted into the cutting path.

Will a fade damage dreadlocks?

A properly executed fade does not damage the locs themselves. The clipper only touches the hair below and at the sides of the hairline, not the locs. The risk of damage comes from accidentally catching a loc with the clipper blade, which is prevented by working slowly at the perimeter and using a detail trimmer for the final hairline work.

How often should someone with locs get a fade?

The same cadence as a standard fade client: every 2 to 4 weeks depending on how quickly the sides grow and how tight they want the fade maintained. Some clients with locs go longer between fade maintenance because the locs draw more visual attention than the sides.

Should I ask a barber about experience with locs before booking?

Yes, especially for the first visit. A barber who has worked with loc clients regularly knows the perimeter technique and the consultation process. For clients protective of their locs, asking specifically about experience with taper fades on loc clients before booking is a reasonable step.