Men's Hair Products: A Barber's Guide to Clay, Pomade, and Paste

The average man uses one product for everything, often whatever happened to be on the shelf when they ran out of the last thing. Barbers who understand the functional difference between product types and can explain it in plain language give clients real value — and sell more retail product in the process.

Every men's styling product delivers some combination of three things: hold (how well it keeps the style in place), finish (shine level, from matte to high gloss), and texture (whether it adds or reduces separation and dimension in the hair). Different products optimize for different combinations. The right product depends on the client's hair type, the style they want, and how much time they are willing to spend styling each day.

Clay

What it is: typically a blend of kaolin or bentonite clay with waxes and oils. The clay component gives the product a thick, dry texture before application and is responsible for the matte finish.

Hold: medium to strong.

Finish: matte to low-sheen. No visible shine on the hair.

Best for: textured cuts (textured crop, messy styles, pompadour with a matte finish), thick hair that needs strong hold without shine. Works well for clients who do not want their hair to look "done" — the matte finish reads as natural even when the hair is heavily styled.

How to use: scrape a small amount, work it between the palms to emulsify, apply to dry hair (or slightly damp — dry application produces a matte, textured result; damp application produces slightly more definition). Work through with the fingers, shape with the hands.

Pomade

Pomade splits into two categories: water-based and oil-based.

Water-based pomade: medium hold, medium to high shine, easy to wash out with water. The most versatile daily-use product for the widest range of styles. Good for comb overs, side parts, slick-back styles, and any look that requires the hair to lie clean and defined. Clients who go directly from work to social occasions without wanting to restyle prefer water-based pomades because the style can be refreshed with slightly damp hands.

Oil-based pomade: strong hold, very high shine, difficult to wash out (requires shampoo, not just water rinse). Produces the classic slick look associated with 1950s and rockabilly aesthetics. Best for clients who want maximum shine and maximum hold and are committed to the washing effort. Not suitable as an everyday product for most clients.

Paste

What it is: texture-forward product with medium hold and low-to-medium shine. Typically lighter in feel than clay or pomade.

Hold: light to medium.

Finish: natural to low-sheen.

Best for: short-to-medium length styles where separation and texture are desired rather than a clean, defined shape. Works well for clients who want a low-effort, natural finish — apply and go. Also useful for clients with fine hair that clays can weigh down.

Wax

Strong hold, medium to high shine. Heavier feel than paste or clay. Works well for styles that need to stay in place all day — spiky styles, defined pieces, styles that cannot be reworked once set. The trade-off is weight — wax can make fine hair look flat.

Gel

Strong to extra-strong hold, high shine, dries hard. The most old-fashioned of the product categories — gel-set hair is associated with a specific look that most modern barbershop clients are not going for. Still appropriate for clients who want maximum hold and do not mind the hard-set finish. Activates and looks best when applied to wet hair.

Sea Salt Spray

No hold, adds texture and volume. Used primarily on medium-to-long hair to add beach-wave texture and body. Not a finishing product — used in combination with a light paste or clay for styles where volume and separation are more important than hold.

CADMEN Training

Product knowledge and client consultation are covered in the CADMEN barbershop owner coaching program. academy.cadmen.ca.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best hair product for men?

It depends on the hair type, desired finish, and style. For most men wanting a modern, low-maintenance finish: a matte clay for thick hair needing texture and hold; a water-based pomade for clean, defined styles at any shine level; a paste for fine hair needing light texture without weight. The single most useful product for the widest range of men's styles is a medium-hold matte clay — it works on short fades, textured crops, and most natural styles without looking overdone. The "best" product is the one that produces the client's desired result with the least effort in their specific hair type.

What is the difference between clay and pomade?

Clay is a matte, texture-forward product that absorbs oil and creates a dry, natural-looking finish. Pomade (water-based) has more shine, provides cleaner definition, and allows the hair to lie smooth rather than look textured. Clay is better for styles where you want the hair to look natural and textured. Pomade is better for styles where you want the hair to look deliberately combed, defined, or slicked. Both provide similar hold levels at comparable product quality. The choice comes down primarily to finish (matte vs. shine) and the kind of look the style calls for.

Should you apply hair product to wet or dry hair?

Depends on the product and the desired result. Clay and paste: apply to slightly damp or dry hair — dry application maximizes the matte texture finish; slightly damp application gives more definition. Water-based pomade: apply to damp hair for maximum definition and ease of distribution, or dry hair for a more textured hold. Oil-based pomade: works best applied to dry hair. Gel: apply to wet hair — this is what gel is designed for and produces its best result. Sea salt spray: applies to damp hair to enhance natural texture as it dries. The general principle: most modern styling products (clays, pastes) are designed for dry or slightly damp application. Traditional liquid products (gel, liquid pomades) work best on wet or damp hair.

How much hair product should you use?

Less than most men use. The most common product mistake: using too much, resulting in heavy, greasy-looking hair. Start with a small amount — about the size of a pea for short hair, a dime for medium-length hair. Work the product thoroughly between the palms to emulsify and warm it before applying. If the result looks underdone, add a small additional amount. Working with less and building up is always better than starting with too much and trying to dilute it by washing out and starting again. Product packaging serving sizes are typically 2 to 3 times more than most clients actually need.

Does hair product damage hair?

No, for most products used in standard amounts. Water-based products (clays, pastes, water-based pomades) wash out cleanly and do not accumulate in the hair shaft. Oil-based products (waxes, oil-based pomades) can cause buildup if not washed out regularly, which can weigh hair down and, in some cases, contribute to scalp issues if left on for extended periods without washing. Product buildup is the primary concern with heavier products — using a clarifying shampoo once per week removes accumulated buildup from any product type. Chemical sprays and heat-activated products used with styling tools cause more cumulative hair shaft wear over time than manual styling products, but at normal usage levels none of these products cause significant permanent hair damage.